What we missed the most: lightness, structure, freedom of movement


These are challenging times we live in - the daily challenges that the current threat situation offers us keep us on our toes and force us to constantly think in variants.

By Jeroen van Rooijen

Apart from the stress that this entails, the permanent "flex training" is perhaps also a way to a better world. If we now learn to adapt and reposition ourselves quickly, this could help us to better master future crises.

Clothing has already adapted to the new living conditions. Because hardly anyone knows what tomorrow will bring, let alone in a month's time, the new fashion is modular and designed in variants. It no longer follows rigid patterns and tasks, the genres mix to create a new look. The old registers such as business, casual or workwear have had their day. The new style has a bit of everything.

In addition, this spring's new wardrobe offers all those qualities that we have sorely missed in recent months:

Lightness : Textile technology has made incredible advances to make even traditional fabrics as light as possible. Even classic suit fabrics have a weight today that only the lightest luxury textiles used to have. The fact that these new fabrics are still opaque and resilient makes them a "game changer" for men's fashion.

Structure : Humans need landmarks to find their way – on a glassy ocean with no horizon, even the most seasoned sailor is aimless. The new fabrics of this season offer a lot of structure: tactile, three-dimensional experiences for the fingertips. They are granular, ribbed or roughened. This not only ensures a lively look for the material, but also the necessary dash of authenticity.

Freedom of movement : Not being able to go out or not being allowed to travel - a horror. Because people need exercise, they are only free when they explore their environment. So that this pent-up urge to move can unfold freely, the new fabrics are stretchy, elastic, resilient and breathable. Natural fibers set the tone. With a good fit you can achieve more comfort than with a lot of synthetics and chemicals.

Jeroen van Rooijen is a freelance style critic and co-founder of the Alferano concept store in 2014.